李东泽, 李瑞, 吴克俭, 2024. 太平洋涌浪池年际变化与成因研究[J]. 海洋科学进展, 42(2): 219-232. doi: 10.12362/j.issn.1671-6647.20221229001.
引用本文: 李东泽, 李瑞, 吴克俭, 2024. 太平洋涌浪池年际变化与成因研究[J]. 海洋科学进展, 42(2): 219-232. doi: 10.12362/j.issn.1671-6647.20221229001.
LI D Z, LI R, WU K J, 2024. The interannual variation and causes of the swell pools in the Pacific Ocean[J]. Advances in Marine Science, 42(2): 219-232. DOI: 10.12362/j.issn.1671-6647.20221229001
Citation: LI D Z, LI R, WU K J, 2024. The interannual variation and causes of the swell pools in the Pacific Ocean[J]. Advances in Marine Science, 42(2): 219-232. DOI: 10.12362/j.issn.1671-6647.20221229001

太平洋涌浪池年际变化与成因研究

The Interannual Variation and Causes of the Swell Pools in the Pacific Ocean

  • 摘要: 使用ERA5再分析数据和涌浪指标研究了太平洋、大西洋和印度洋低纬度海域的涌浪池,分析了太平洋涌浪池的形成来源,结果表明:太平洋涌浪池的东南部分是由南太平洋的波浪北传形成;西北部分涌浪池是由北太平洋的波浪南传形成;而涌浪池中部是由二者共同影响的。太平洋涌浪池面积在冬季(12月至翌年2月)较大,夏季(6月至8月)较小。处于冬季半球的涌浪可以传播得更远并越过赤道,停留在冬季半球低纬海域的涌浪减少,同时冬季半球的风浪全年最强,导致该半球太平洋的涌浪池面积减小;处于夏季半球的涌浪传播距离较小,因此涌浪会“堆积”在该半球低纬海域,同时夏季半球的风浪全年最弱,导致该半球太平洋的涌浪池面积增大。涌浪池所在海域的风场强度较弱,风浪较小,为涌浪在低纬的优势创造了有利条件。厄尔尼诺或拉尼娜发生时,会分别加强或削弱传到太平洋低纬地区的涌浪,从而影响涌浪池的空间分布。涌浪池时空变化的分析对涌浪的大尺度传播研究具有重要意义。

     

    Abstract: ERA5 reanalysis data and swell-index are used to study the swell pools in the low latitude areas of the Pacific, Atlantic and Indian Oceans, and analyze the causes of the Pacific swell pools. The results show that the southeast part of the Pacific swell pools is caused by the northward propagation of waves from the South Pacific, while the northwest part is caused by the southward propagation of waves from the North Pacific. The middle part of the swell pools is affected by both. The area of the Pacific swell pools is larger in winter (DJF) and smaller in summer (JJA). The swells in the winter hemisphere can spread farther and even cross the equator, thus the swells staying in low latitude sea area of the winter hemisphere are less. At the same time, the wind waves in the winter hemisphere is strongest all year around, resulting in the reduction in the swell pools area in the winter hemisphere. The propagation distance of the swells in the summer hemisphere is short, so the swells will "accumulate" in the low latitude sea area of the hemisphere. At the same time, the wind waves in the summer hemisphere is the weakest all year around, leading to the increase in the swell pools area in the summer hemisphere. The strength of wind field in the sea area where the swell pools is located is weak and the wind waves is feeble, creating favorable conditions for dominance of swells. When El Niño or La Nina occurs, it will strengthen or weaken the swells propagated to the low latitude Pacific region, thus affecting the spatial distribution of swell pools. The analysis of the temporal and spatial variation of swell pools is of great significance to the study of large-scale propagation of swells.

     

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