非平整岛礁对波浪传播变形与增水影响的试验研究

Experimental Study on Wave Transformation and Wave Setup at a Complex Uneven Fringing Reef

  • 摘要: 广泛分布于热带和亚热带海域的珊瑚礁一般具有非平整的礁坪地形,礁坪地形的变化会显著影响入射波浪在岛礁上的传播演变特性。然而,以往研究工作尚未系统探讨礁坪地形突变对规则波岛礁水动力特性的影响。本文通过开展波浪水槽实验,研究非平整岛礁地形规则波浪的水动力特性和非线性特性,进而系统分析入射波高、波浪周期和礁坪水深三种不同入射波浪要素对波浪传播变形与增水的影响。研究结果表明,非平整礁坪增强了波浪的非线性变化,在礁坪台阶附近不对称度、偏度和厄塞尔数均达到峰值,促进了波能从主频波向高次谐波的转移;波浪在第二礁坪上破碎耗散的能量主要来自主频波,岸线附近透射波成分中二次谐波与主频波能量相当。此外,入射波高增大或礁坪水深减小都会致使波浪在礁坪台阶附近的破碎强度增加,从而在第二礁坪上波浪的增水值增加。当增大波浪周期时,多重波浪反射作用下会在第一礁坪上形成驻波,礁坪台阶附近更多波能向高次谐波转移,第二礁坪上波浪增水值呈现出非线性变化。

     

    Abstract: Coral reefs widely distributed in tropical and subtropical waters generally have uneven reef flat terrain. The change of reef flat terrain will significantly affect the propagation and evolution characteristics of incident waves on islands and reefs. However, previous studies have not systematically studied the influence of reef flat topography mutation on the hydrodynamic characteristics of regular wave island reefs. In this paper, the hydrodynamic characteristics and nonlinear characteristics of regular waves on uneven islands and reefs are studied by carrying out wave flume experiments. The effects of three different incident wave factors, i.e., incident wave height, wave period and reef water depth, on wave propagation deformation and water increase are systematically analyzed. The results show that the non-flat reef flat enhances the nonlinear variation of waves, and the asymmetry, skewness and Essel number reach the peak near the reef flat step, which promotes the transfer of wave energy from the dominant frequency wave to the higher harmonics. The energy dissipated by wave breaking on the second reef flat mainly comes from the main frequency wave, and the second harmonic in the transmitted wave component near the shoreline is equivalent to the energy of the main frequency wave. In addition, the higher the incident wave height or the smaller the water depth of the reef flat, the higher harmonics are more likely to be generated near the reef flat step, and the wave added value on the second reef flat increases. When the wave period is increased, the standing wave will be formed on the first reef flat under the action of multiple wave reflection, and more wave energy will be transferred to higher harmonics near the reef flat step, and the wave increment value on the second reef flat shows a nonlinear change.

     

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