复坡岛礁地形上椭圆余弦波传播演变特性试验

Experiment on Propagation and Transformation Characteristics of Cnoidal Waves Over Compound-Slope Reefs

  • 摘要: 波浪向岸传播进入岛礁浅水区后非线性显著增强,传统的斯托克斯波与线性波理论难以准确描述其变形特征。为此,本文依托波浪水槽物理模型试验,重点探讨椭圆余弦波在复坡岛礁地形上的传播演变规律,系统分析入射波高、波周期和水深对波浪水动力特性的影响。试验结果表明,复坡岛礁地形对非线性长波的传播演变及增水过程具有显著影响。椭圆余弦波沿礁前斜坡传播时持续浅化并向前倾斜,在礁缘附近破碎后主频能量迅速衰减,低频长波能量则沿礁坪逐步增长;标准工况下,平均波高最大增至入射波高的1.28 倍,礁坪末端自由液面波动幅度较入射波衰减约73%。随入射波高由0.04 m 增至0.10 m,归一化破碎波高和透射系数降低,礁坪最大增水和礁后最大爬高分别由0.118 m、0.088 m增至0.325 m、0.177 m,而反射系数呈先降后升的非单调变化。当周期增大时,归一化破碎波高、透射系数、礁坪增水和礁后爬高总体增大,反射系数受相位差影响出现局部波动。水深增大削弱了浅化与破碎,反射系数总体减小,随着水深由0.481 m增至0.556 m,透射系数由0.243增至0.780,礁后最大爬高由0.069 m增至0.214 m,礁坪增水减小;较深水工况下还出现了二次破碎。试验揭示了复坡地形对主频与低频能量再分配的作用,以及入射条件对增水和爬高的差异化控制,可为岛礁近岸工程中的波浪增水与爬高评估提供试验依据。

     

    Abstract: Waves propagating shoreward into the shallow-water zone of a reef become markedly more nonlinear, and the classical Stokes and linear wave theories can no longer describe their deformation accurately. Physical model experiments were therefore conducted in a wave flume to investigate the propagation and transformation of cnoidal waves over a compound-slope reef topography, and to examine the effects of incident wave height, wave period and water depth on the wave hydrodynamics. The compound-slope topography strongly controls the evolution of these nonlinear long waves and the associated wave setup: the cnoidal waves shoaled continuously and leaned progressively forward while climbing the fore-reef slope, and after breaking near the reef edge the energy at the peak frequency decayed rapidly while the low-frequency long-wave energy grew across the reef flat. Under the reference condition (H0 = 0.06 m, T = 2.50 s, h = 0.506 m), the mean wave height increased to a maximum of 1.28 times the incident wave height, and the free-surface oscillation at the shoreward end of the reef flat was about 73% lower than that of the incident wave. As the incident wave height increased from 0.04 to 0.10 m, the normalized breaking wave height and the transmission coefficient decreased, the maximum reef-flat setup and the maximum run-up on the rear slope rose from 0.118 to 0.325 m and from 0.088 to 0.177 m, and the reflection coefficient varied non-monotonically, first decreasing and then increasing. As the wave period increased, the normalized breaking wave height, the transmission coefficient, the reef-flat setup and the rear-slope run-up generally increased, whereas the reflection coefficient fluctuated locally owing to the phase difference between the incident and reflected waves. Greater water depth weakened shoaling and breaking and lowered the reflection coefficient overall; as the water depth increased from 0.481 to 0.556 m, the transmission coefficient rose from 0.243 to 0.780, the maximum rear-slope run-up from 0.069 to 0.214 m, and the reef-flat setup decreased, with secondary breaking observed under the deeper-water condition. These results reveal the redistribution of wave energy between the peak-frequency and low-frequency bands induced by the compound-slope topography, and the differentiated control of the incident conditions on wave setup and run-up, providing an experimental basis for their assessment in nearshore reef engineering.

     

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