用椭圆余弦波理论中的不对称性解释沙质海岸的演变

Analysis of Sandy Coast Morphological Evolution-applying Asymmetry of Cnoidal Wave Theory

  • 摘要: 本文对海浪作用下近岸沙质岸滩水下沙坝的形态进行探讨,并对前人文献中认为水下沙坝是波浪破碎形成,并能发育露出水面的观点提出了质疑。水下沙坝的位置不同,可以形成沙质海岸剖面的三种不同基本形态。对于冲刷型沙滩被冲刷泥沙去处及水下沙坝露出水面的过程,通过椭圆余弦波理论进行分析和解释,由于椭圆余弦波的不对称性,尤其是底部流速的不对称性,造成水下沙坝从离岸较远处被逐渐向上推移,接近岸边,最终发育成露出水面的海岸沙坝。并通过对椭圆余弦波的计算值、试验资料与现场实测值进行对比,证明了椭圆余弦波理论是风暴后与近岸带长周期涌浪最吻合的波浪理论。

     

    Abstract: The morphology of underwater sand dams on nearshore sandy beaches under the action of waves is discussed, and the viewpoint that underwater sand dams are formed by wave breaking and can develop above the water surface in previous literature is questioned. The different locations of underwater sand dams can form three basic forms of sandy coastal profiles. As for the process of scouring sand beaches and underwater sand dams emerging from the water surface, the elliptical cosine wave theory is used to analyze and explain. Due to the asymmetry of the elliptical cosine wave, especially the asymmetry of the bottom flow velocity, underwater sand dams are gradually pushed upward from a distance away from the shore, approaching the shore, and eventually developing into coastal sand dams emerging from the water surface. By comparing the calculated and experimental values of the elliptical cosine wave with the field measured values, it is proved that the elliptical cosine wave theory is the most consistent wave theory with the long-period surge in the coastal zone after a storm.

     

/

返回文章
返回